Subject: DX440 mod
From: [email-masked] (Bill Kelsey)
Date: 10 Apr 93 14:18:00 GMT
Newsgroups: rec.radio.shortwave

From: [email-masked] (Ming Ouyang)
Date: 24 Mar 93 04:30:36 GMT

 -=> Quoting Ming Ouyang to All <=-

 MO> The Sangean ats803a has a "rec out". But on my DX440, after I removed
 MO> the little piece of plastic which covered the supposed position of the
 MO> jack, I found no jack at all. I guess I have to hardwire one. So is
 MO> there any mod plan of doing this? I'd like to use DX440 as a tuner in
 MO> a stereo system. Thanks in advance.

 MO> I am sorry if this had been asked recently. I didn't read this
 MO> newsgroup in the past few months.

 MO> -- Ming Ouyang
 MO> [email-masked]

Here is a pretty complete description of adding the DIN plug to a
DX-440, garnered from various (identified) sources.  Note that you
probably will *not* be able to use the signal from the DIN plug with
your stereo, unless your stereo accepts direct microphone input, since
the TAPE OUT on the DX-440 is intended to connect to a MIC IN jack.
You might do better to simply run a stereo patch cord from the DX-440
HEADPHONE jack to the stereo's TUNER or AUX jack.

               A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORK

From: Michael Mitchell:
OK, Here's some stuff from the boards that I've picked up on
modifying the DX440 to have the tape-out as the radio was
originally designed before RS got their marketing guys on it.
Check out the plug in the case where the DIN connector goes.  I
have the DX440 and just installed the five pin DIN connector on
the PCB just as it must have been intended.  The only thing you
need to do is desolder the holes on the PCB and install a 5 pin
DIN PCB mounted connector.  Everything fits in place and you now
have record output.... Once I had the DIN installed and placed
the cover on, you could not tell it from a factory job...  If you
have a Radio Shack nearby, just order a PCB Mounted DIN Connector
for a Radio Shack Color Computer Cassette Interface Port.  It's
the same thing that worked for me.

The Pinouts for the DX-440 Record-Out Project.

      Locating Hole -[]
       5 N.C.  - O         O - Audio Left 6
        3 N.C.  - O       O - Audio Right 4
          Ground ---  O
                      2

This diagram is looking at the face of the receptacle after
installation.  BTW..  This makes a very tidy installation.  You
cannot even tell it was installed by anyone but the factory.  The
standard DIN connector fits up flush with the case.  Mind you
that the output is LOW LEVEL.  That is to say on the order of 15
to 20 Millivolts (.015 Volts A.C.).  One person previously was
trying to measure with a DC setting which doesn't work very well.
This connection drives a microphone input very well.  It is
independent of the volume control which is nice for late night
recording, and it will put out FM stereo when the stereo - mono
switch is set for stereo.

             A MORE DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE WORK

From: William N. Abbay:
Installing the DIN jack is very easy.  The PC board is already
drilled and prepared for a standard jack.  Find a PC board mount
jack, and you cannot go wrong.  I'll go through the whole
procedure, just in case you haven't had a chance to explore the
insides of your radio.

Lay the radio on its face, right side up.  From the back of your
radio, there are 6 phillips screws holding it together.  They are
approximately in this pattern:

                 o                o          o

   This one --->  o                   o      o
   is inside
   the battery
   compartment

Remove all the screws.  Remove the large D batteries, if any.
You can leave the AA batteries.

Lift the cover but be careful of the antenna wire which connects
the whip antenna to the radio PC board.  Turn the back over and
set it above the radio.

Look inside, now.  On the right side of the radio compartment,
you will see a smaller PC board mounted above the main board.
This is the audio  board.  Near the top center and lower left
corner, see the black plastic mounting clips. They support the
board.  Look closely and you will see that the board can be
lifted carefully off these clips.  Before you do this, notice the
three solder pads near the lower left side.  These contact the
three fingers sticking out of the battery compartment to provide
battery power to the radio. Those three fingers must make good
contact or the radio's computer will misbehave and act goofy.

Gently pry the clips and lift the board.  There are wires which
connect to board to the speaker.  Be careful of these.  If they
are secured with a plastic tie, cut the tie [NOT the wires. :-)]
This will give you some extra room.  If you are very careful, you
can maneuver the board over on its back and see the pattern of
holes next to the earphone jack.  These are exactly the right
pattern for a standard PC board-mount DIN jack.  Hold your jack
next to the holes and you can see which ones I mean.

At the factory, the soldering of the board probably covered these
holes.  You will have to clear them out.  From the back, using a
small, low wattage soldering iron, heat the solder around these
holes and stick a round tooth-pick through from the top.  If you
have a "solder sucker" or other de-soldering tool, the job will
be easier.  You must completely free these holes of solder.  When
this is done, you are ready to install your jack.  It can't go in
but one way.  Insert the jack and, using fresh solder, solder
each legs to its pad ... be careful and don't use too much.

Remove the plug which covers the hole in the case.

Reassembling your radio is just the reverse of the above.
Carefully line up the jacks with the holes in the case at the
same time you line up the clips which fit through the holes in
the PC board.  Snap the audio board into place.  Lift the back
over and onto the radio, taking care that you don't leave the
antenna wire sticking outside the case.  You have rock the back
slightly to get it to seat, sometimes.  Don't force anything.
The screws are all the same.

If your radio acts goofy when you are done, it is probably due to
the fact that the micro processor has not initialized properly
when you connected the case back up.  The small AA batteries
power the microprocessor when all other power is removed.  In
this case, however, you removed all power from the radio when you
disconnected the case.  Simply remove the AA batteries for a few
minutes, and reinsert.  Everything should be ok.

As to which contact goes where:  I have only identified the two
audio pins.  When I get time to run down what the others do, I
will post it to Genie.  Looking toward the jack from the outside
of the radio, the "x"s mark the audio out pins.

                   x              I connected these directly to
               x       o          the microphone input on my tape
                                  recorder and it works just
              o         o         fine as a constant level input.

                  []

Now, you can do a favor for me!  Somewhere in the process of
doing this to mine, I have disconnected a small green wire.  I
cannot find out where it goes but the radio works without it.
Right now it is just loose.  It seems to have gone somewhere on
the audio board, but I cannot be sure.  When you go inside your
radio, perhaps you can reply back as to where that little green
wire goes?

                       THE RADIO SHACK DIN PLUG

From: Fred Mckenzie:
To get the special pcb-mount 5-pin DIN connector, order from
Radio Shack a "Cassette I/O Jack" (JK4) for a TRS-80 Color
Computer model 2 or 3.  The Radio Shack part number is AJ-7356,
although the bag mine came in was marked JE-1216.  The price was
$1.00.  If they don't know already, the Radio Shack Color
Computer 3 is catalog number 26-3334.

[message continued]

... E'n la sua volontade . nostra pace. (Dante  Alighieri)
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Article: 19528 of rec.radio.shortwave
Path: news.cs.tut.fi!news.funet.fi!sunic!uunet!gatech!concert!rutgers!twwells!pics!bill.kelsey
From: [email-masked] (Bill Kelsey)
Newsgroups: rec.radio.shortwave
Subject: DX440 mod
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
Date: 10 Apr 93 14:21:00 GMT
Reply-To: [email-masked] (Bill Kelsey)
Organization: Pics OnLine! MultiUser System - 609-753-2540
Lines: 140

From: [email-masked] (Ming Ouyang)
Date: 24 Mar 93 04:30:36 GMT

 -=> Quoting Ming Ouyang to All <=-

 MO> The Sangean ats803a has a "rec out". But on my DX440, after I removed
 MO> the little piece of plastic which covered the supposed position of the
 MO> jack, I found no jack at all. I guess I have to hardwire one. So is
 MO> there any mod plan of doing this? I'd like to use DX440 as a tuner in
 MO> a stereo system. Thanks in advance.
 MO> -- Ming Ouyang
 MO> [email-masked]

[continued -- 2]

                       THE RADIO SHACK DIN PLUG

From: Fred Mckenzie:
To get the special pcb-mount 5-pin DIN connector, order from
Radio Shack a "Cassette I/O Jack" (JK4) for a TRS-80 Color
Computer model 2 or 3.  The Radio Shack part number is AJ-7356,
although the bag mine came in was marked JE-1216.  The price was
$1.00.  If they don't know already, the Radio Shack Color
Computer 3 is catalog number 26-3334.

                       THE DIN CONNECTING CABLE

From: Bill Kelsey:
Now that we've had several messages explaining exactly how to
install the missing DIN plug into the Radio Shack DX-440 version
of the Sangean ATS-803A, the next problem (for owners of either
the ATS-803A or DX-440) is how to connect that DIN connector to
the microphone inputs on your tape recorder.  Note that
connecting the DIN plug to LINE IN/TAPE IN jacks on a receiver or
tape recorder won't work; the DIN connection only works with a
low level microphone input (most mic inputs are low level).

You can buy a DIN => 1/8" miniplug monophonic connecting cable
from UNIVERSAL RADIO (1-800-431-3939): it's the "ATS-803 CBL",
order #1687, and sells for $14.95 (+$2 s&h).  The example I have
is 3 feet of RG 58 A/U foam cable connected between the right
channel output of the DIN plug and a 1/8" mono mini plug.  Cost
of the parts (unassembled) from Universal is $3.19 (mini plug,
#0707, $ .69  [Radio Shack: #274-286, $1.49 (pkg of 2)]; 5 Pin
DIN plug, #1828, $1.99 [Radio Shack: #274-003, $1.69]; RG-58 A/U
50 Ohm foam cable, #2619, $ .17/ft  [Radio Shack: #278-1314,
$ .20/ft].

According to their catalogue, Universal will also custom build
this for the cost of the parts and $10 (ask for the Special Order
Custom Cable, #0569), plus $2.50 s&h.

This works OK, so long as you're happy with a one channel mono
connection.  However, it is just as easy (and less expensive) to
build a stereo cable.  (Note that if you install a stereo plug,
you may need to use a stereo => mono adapter when running into a
mono recorder; Radio Shack has these).  There are two approaches
to this (all part #'s and prices from the 1992 Radio Shack
catalog, #472):

APPROACH #1 (MODIFYING A DIN - DIN CABLE)
parts:
1:  a 6-ft shielded DIN - DIN cable (Radio Shack #42-2151; $4.99)
2:  an appropriate stereo plug, such as a stereo mini-plug
    (either #274-284, $2.19/pkg of 2; or #274-1547, $1.99 (the
    latter is metal and shielded); other sizes of plugs can also
    be used, depending on your tape recorder microphone jacks);
    alternatively, LEFT and RIGHT mono plugs, such as red and
    black mini plugs (RED: #274-287; BLACK: #274-286; both
    $1.49/pkg of 2) may be used

Clip one end off the DIN - DIN cable, and attach the stero plug
to the GROUND, LEFT, and RIGHT wires.  On my cable, the RED wire
is RIGHT CHANNEL OUT and the WHITE wire is LEFT CHANNEL OUT.  The
YELLOW and BLACK wires (LEFT and RIGHT INPUT, respectively) are
ignored.  On a stereo plug, the tip of the shaft is the LEFT
channel, the middle section is the RIGHT channel, and the back
section is the GROUND.  You should be able to identify the
connections from this -- if not, when attaching the cable, the
LEFT channel will be the connection going to the center, the
GROUND the connection sticking out the back that extends to the
threaded part of the plug, and the RIGHT channel the connection
between the LEFT channel and the GROUND.

If LEFT and RIGHT mono plugs are used, the LEFT or RIGHT
connection is to the center of the plug, while the GROUND is to
the outside.
TOTAL COST:  about $7

APPROACH #2 (BUILDING A CABLE FROM SCRATCH)
parts:
1:  5-pin DIN plug (#274-003, $1.69)
2:  an appropriate stereo plug or mono plugs, as above
3:  shielded audio cable, such as #278-514 (20 ft, 2 conductor,
    $3.49) or #278-777 (30 ft, 4 conductor, $7.95)

On the Sangean ATS-803A the DIN jack looks like this (I suppose
it looks the same on the modified DX-440), FACING THE DIN JACK:

               (b)(a)
R R             o  o               R F
A E              \ |               A R
D A      (c) o---       [ (f)      D O
I R              / |               I N
O               o  o               O T
               (d)(e)

a =  left input (unconnected)        d =  right output
b =  right input (unconnected)       e =  left output
c =  ground                          f =  locating hole

The DIN plug connections, then, must be exactly the same, FACING
THE BACK (WIRE SIDE) OF THE DIN PLUG.  Attach the stereo plug, or
LEFT and RIGHT mono plugs, as above.
TOTAL COST:  about $7

One last note on taping from the ATS-803A/DX440:  I don't believe
this radio can activate a tape recorder's remote control, but by
using the radio's timer in conjunction with a voice activated
tape recorder you can achieve the same effect.  I use a Radio
Shack Minisette-20, and it works like a charm (although having an
auto-reverse recorder would be nicer)!

BTW, I've also discovered that you can play tapes back through the
ATS-803A by moving the plugs from the MIC IN jack to the HEADPHONE jack
on the cassette recorder.  All of the SW receiver's amplifier
controls (volume, balance, bass, treble) work.  Coupled with a set of
small AC/battery powered self-amplified speakers, this has given me a
portable LW/MW/SW/FM/cassette stereo system I can easily take on
extended trips.

... Nam risu inepto res ineptior nulla est! (Catullus)  
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